Pattern Corrections

Even though all of my patterns undergo testing, I still find that there are occasional corrections and clarifications needed after a pattern is printed/downloaded. Before you begin making a pattern, I always recommend checking here first to make sure all of your information is up to date. Happy quilting!


C'est La Vie (from Fat Quarter Shop's Sew Sampler Box November 2016).

On page 3, the instructions for making half-square triangles say to sew along the marked line. It should say to sew 1/4'' away from the marked line on both sides, then cut along the marked line and press open the HSTs.

#124 Sawmill

In step #1, the instructions say to sub-cut each 10 x 10" square into one rectangle 4'' x 10" and one rectangle 4-1/4'' x 10"  block. It should actually say to just cut two rectangles 4'' x 10''.

#126 Cottage Canopy

Under the "Materials Needed" page, there needs to be a listing for 1-2/3 yards of fabric for the scallop trim for the roof.

#135 Kaleidoscope-only for the original 2015 printing using Gooseberry fabric on the cover

Step #7 should be corrected to read as follows:

Sew the “B” unit to the left of the “O” unit and press. Attach the “C” unit on top; press. Repeat to add the “L” unit to left (press), the “M” unit on top (press), the “D” unit to the left (press), and the “E” unit to the top (press). 

The diagram is correct.

#142 Cottage Blossoms

In Step #4 of "Block Assembly," be sure to take care that the white rectangle 6'' x 6 1/2''  is oriented correctly. Since it is an almost-square shape, it would be easy to not pay attention to this. (The 6 1/2'' should run along the top and bottom.)

#143 June Bug

You really only need 2/3 yard of binding fabric, the 3/4 yard listing is more than generous.

#144 Checkmate

The initial release of the PDF calls for too many white squares 5'' x 5''. You should only need 96 total. In Step #9, under "White Fabric" there are only 6 squares 5'' x 5'' needed per block, not 9.

#147 Homestead

In step #5, you will also use the 1 pink background square 4 1/2'' x 4 1/2''.

In step #7, you will also use the 1 taupe square 4 1/2'' x 4 1/2''.

In step #9, you will also use the 1 black square 4 1/2'' x 4 1/2''.

NOTE: You will probably have already figured out these squares are needed since they are unused and are pictured in the diagrams.

#149 Bloomington

In the "Cutting" instructions for the WHITE fabric, the third bullet point should simply say to cut 12 strips 2 1/2'' x WOF--NO SUBCUTTING NEEDED (instead of cutting 9 strips 2 1/2'' x WOF and subcutting them into 2 1/2'' x 4 1/2'' rectangles.) No adjustment is need to the amount of white fabric called for in the pattern--there should still be enough.

-->>>NOTE: Keeping the white strips uncut will make it so you can do strip-piecing for the border assembly in Step #1 under "BORDERS." If you have already subcut the white strips into the 2 1/2'' x 4 1/2'' rectangles, you can still piece the border by subcutting each border Jelly Roll strip into 6 rectangles 2 1/2'' x 4 1/2'' and piecing them into a row as shown in Step #3 under "BORDERS."

In the "Cutting" instructions for the PINK SASHING fabric, the last bullet point should say to trim to 4 1/2'' x 72 1/2'', not 4 1/2'' x 64 1/2'' (again).

#152 Aviator

Finished block is 16'' x 17''

THEREFORE, the finished quilt is 64'' x 68'', not 64'' x 78''.

This also means you will only need 72'' x 76'' batting and 4 1/2'' yards backing fabric.

*NOTE: You will need to cut a 17 1/2’’ x 21 1/2’’ rectangle from each fat quarter. When purchasing fabric, measure to make sure your fat quarters will allow you to do this. If you prewash fabric, you might consider purchasing half-yards.

UPDATE 3/6/17: The pattern is in its 4th reprinting and I have decided to make one small change to the cutting in order to make it easier to get from fat quarters. (Because some fat quarters aren't always 22'' wide, this is really just to offer a little more leeway here.) Basically, if you can't get 17 1/2'' x 21 1/2'' from your fat quarter, this has been tweaked so you only need 17 1/2'' x 21'' from the fat quarter. 

This changes the new finished block to 16'' x 16 1/2''.

(THEREFORE, the new finished quilt size is 64'' x 66''.)

(The newest version says the following:)

*NOTE: You will need to cut a 17 1/2'' x 21'' rectangle from each fat quarter. When purchasing fabric, measure to make sure your fat quarters will allow you to do this. If you prewash fabrics, you might consider purchasing half yards.

If you go this route and use a 17 1/2'' x 21'' rectangle, in Step #1 the 8'' x 17 1/2'' rectangle needs to be changed to 7 1/2'' x 17 1/2''. In Step #2, the diagonal subcutting of this  7 1/2'' x 17 1/2'' rectangle remains the same. 

#169 Little Cottontail

For Step #14, the unfinished size of the unit should be 2 1/2'' x 2 1/2''. (The inital version published said 4 1/2'' x 4 1/2''. This error was corrected within hours of the pattern being released.)

#165 Easy Breezy

Step #14 should say "Trim 4 background strips 3'' x 80'' to match the measurement." (NOT 4'' x 80'')

#173 Holland

In the scrappy version, Step #2 should say:

"From each ½ yard of green fabric, carefully cut the following:

· (2) strips 8½’’ x WOF. Subcut (8) 5¾’’ x 8½’’ rectangles (4 per strip).

· From the excess, cut (4) 2’’ x 8½’’ rectangles."

(The cutting was tweaked to accommodate unidrectional prints that run parallel with the selvage, such as the green bee print used in the original. This change will only differ from the first batch of printed patterns--PDFs were corrected before release.)